Monday, October 30, 2017

Project 56: Tartan Dress

True confession time: It was supposed to be a long jacket over a black flowing skirt and blouse, but things happened.

For many years, Penny and I co-directed the Gaelic music program for Slighe nan Gaidheal. A couple of years ago I decided to retire and she took over on her own. This last year, they took on the project of assembling a four-part choir to compete in Scotland at the Royal National Mòd.

Penny came to me about six months ago and asked for an outfit to wear while conducting the choir. I had an immediate vision of a knee-length tartan jacket over a black silk blouse and flowing black skirt.

She gave me a list of the tartan designs that would be acceptable in descending order, and very luckily, I was able to find the second choice in sufficient supply of poly-viscose fabric at Fabricana in Richmond for a fraction of what wool tartan would cost in Scotland.

After producing several unsuccessful muslins, I finally got enough of the geometry right to proceed in fabric. The original design had just one button in front and functioned as a jacket, but I wasn't entirely pleased with the overall silhouette, so I gave it a serious think.

The solution that presented itself to me was to button all the way down the front, lose the skirt, and treat the jacket as a dress.

The only aspect of the original vision that I question is insisting on doing all the contour shaping at the side seams to avoid disruption to the tartan pattern in the front. I think I could have made it slightly more flattering if I had let myself add contour seams to the front at least.

Anyway, she got lots of compliments, so I feel good about the final product.

3 comments:

amarilli59 said...

This is relevant to my interests!😄
I have been wanting to make something with tartan to wear that would look good while sitting at the harp for a while. I have a pear-shaped body, so a pleated skirt isn't going to work for me. A tunic like this, but with a little dart shaping in front might, or perhaps an Edwardian walking skirt. The skirt would use a lot of fabric, so price will be a factor. Also, I do not want wool, but haven't had much luck, never mind what tartan to choose!
Therese H

acb said...

Well done! I rather like the swing you got by opting out of darts - I'll bet it moved well while she was conducting. Perhaps some bell in the sleeve from elbow to wrist could enhance the effect and complement the skirt?

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